Vincent Dureuil Janthial

As the calendar finally turns to February, I can now fully move my focus to Burgundy for the next few weeks before starting to turn southeast. I’m taking on Australia next month. January 31st was filled supplier meetings. Tasting began at 10:15 and ran back to back until the last wine was tasted at 6:30. With a tired palate I visited with a friend who was seeking advice on breaking into the restaurant business. We shared a bottle of Duc de Romet Brut, a lovely palate cleanser produced with 50% pinot noir and 50% pinot menieur. A great dinner with my wife included my mom’s chicken paprika recipe. It’s a favorite of mine. It fills the kitchen with such great aromas. After dinner, I started going through the days tasting notes and chuckled thinking to myself that Burgundy and pizza share a similarity, even when they’re bad, they’re still good. There wasn’t much bad wine on the 31st, but there were clear standouts. Vincent Dureuil Janthial is one of them.

Famous Burgundy producer Jean Francois Coche says, “If I see his name on a wine list, I don't give it a second thought and simply order his wine.” That’s probably because the young and immensely talented Dureuil is producing some of the purist pinot noir and chardonnay in today’s market. His family traces their history in Rully back to 1500s. Dureuil spends nearly 14 hours a day in his vineyards tending to the vines. He does most of the work himself. In 2001, he made a switch to organic viticulture. I discovered his wines with the 2003 vintage. With every passing vintage I am more and more impressed with his work. These wines are approachable now. They do not need time in the cellar. No one is crafting a more pure expression of pinot noir. No winemaker gets more clarity and depth of color from pinot than Dureuil. I've been trying to figure out how to be more emphatic about that last statement. A picture is worth a thousand words. His chardonnay isn’t bad either. 

2010 Vincent Dureuil Janthial Rully

Absolutely gorgeous ruby, rose pedal color that is crystal clear. Aromas of dried lavender, strawberries, ripe cherry and wet potter’s clay. The palate is medium bodied with bright fruit notes, fine tannins and beautiful acid that give the wine a linear quality. The finish shows a slight minerality while popping with cherry fruit and a touch of earth giving it a round and polished feel. If you are looking for purity in your pinot noir, you’ve found it. There isn’t much made or much available.

2010 Vincent Dureuil Janthial Rully Blanc

If my wife asks for another glass of a particular chardonnay, it’s best to take notice. She generally hates the stuff, even from Burgundy. But this she loved. Look for straw yellow color. Aromas of poached Anjou pear with subtle notes of marzipan and honey. The palate is rich without being overpowering. There’s beautiful expression of pear and apple fruit but enough acidity to keep this clean and pure. The finish shows some texture and a touch of praline. This is a short term chardonnay to be enjoyed over the next 3 years. Very little made, very little available.

I Was Easy

The seduction of a young palate is easy for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. Like Amy Winehouse clutching a pack of Reds and a Disney smile outside the Highline Ballroom, the wines are dangerously appealing. A young palate doesn't stand a chance. The wines lead you on, promising a long, pleasurable stay. But in the morning you're left with nothing but a headache, a cold bed and an empty pack of smokes. I was no exception.

My family entered the wine business in 1990. I was an impressionable 15. At 22, while my friends settled into "real jobs", I recited California appellations like present value tables, poured through Robert Parker's "The Wine Advocate" as if prepping for the series 7 and honed my sales skills. I was bitten, smitten really, by the sensual fruit and enticing power of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. I was easy.  By 2000, I had experienced a string of fantastic vintages - '95 '96' '97, and even the much maligned and often disavowed '98 seduced me. And the price was right.  For a Jackson, the wines returned rich, dark fruit, voluptuous body, long finishes and plenty of power. I was a kid in love. The next step was easy. I learned who produced the best wines. I followed their careers. I’ve always preferred to bury by nose in a glass than a textbook. So I listened. I drank. And I travelled.

My first trip to Napa was in 2000, fresh off a weekend in Oregon studying Pinot Noirs from the up and coming Willamette Valley – remember in 2000, no one paid much attention to Oregon wines. I flew into San Francisco, rented a rag top and cruised out to Napa.  I had three days to myself - no schedule, no appointments, just a car to cruise in and eagerness to explore everything Napa Valley had to offer. For a young wine lover, Napa Valley can feel like Hollywood. You know the names but have rarely seen the faces. In 2000, the internet was still young, so was the idea of a vineyard owner having a website. Social media didn't exist so winemakers were like politicians, more than willing to snap pictures and shake hands. Each was excited to share their experiences to wine lovers eager hear them. I was a sponge.

On my second night in Napa, spent from a day of touring, I sat at the bar of a small café, enjoyed a bowl of pasta and a bottle of '94 Viader. I figured I’d get scolded for the expense when dad got the expense report. You’re only young once. Sequoia Grove, St. Supery, Signorello, Robert Mondavi and Sterling had taken their toll on my feet, palate, patience and tolerance of mediocrity. Remember I said that Napa can be a lot like Hollywood? Don’t forget the tourist. Yes, I realize the irony in that I, myself, was a tourist. But I knew what I was doing, an insider. Halfway through my bowl of pasta, a man, I remember that he wore linen trousers and a Hawaiian shirt, sat down next me. 

"You seem awfully young to know about that wine." He said. He was commenting on my choice of Viader, then a rather small cult producer

"My father taught me well." I replied. "I'm in the business"

"No kidding. What do you do?"

"My family owns a small wine shop in Connecticut. They're showing me the ropes. I take it you know this wine?" I offered him a glass.

"He did teach you well. Yes, I know the wine. I almost always order it when I’m here. It’s the secret value on the list.”

“It certainly is. So how do you know the wine?”

“I know the winemaker. I'm in the business too."

"Small world I guess.” I stared at him. ” What do you do?" I was arrogant and cocky in my youth.

"”Drop by tomorrow and I’ll show you. Just hand them this at reception”

He tucked the corner of his card face down under my bowl of pasta and gave the bartender a Benjamin for my dinner "Welcome to Napa kid. Nice talking with you." He slipped away to greet his dinner companions who had just arrived, leaving me bemused in what just occurred. The bartender smirked with an expression that read "rookie".  I overturned his card, it read - Craig Williams, Winemaker, Joseph Phelps Vineyards. I stared into my glass of ‘94 Viader, confounded by the idea I had just shared a glass of wine with a winemaking icon. The only thought in my head, “That dude makes the Insignia. No way that just happen”.

The last 12 years have brought a tremendous amount of change to the California landscape.  Yet its wines, winemakers and Hollywood appeal still offer young palates a gateway to the seduction of sophistication. Eventually, our palates grow with us as we mature. Old world regions such as Bordeaux, Barolo and Burgundy begin their seduction process.  And yet, even as our palates mature, Napa Cabs are still just as dangerously appealing. From time to time, even a 30 something like me reverts to those younger years when we were easily seduced by the beauty of Cabernet fruit. Napa Cab keeps me grounded, reminds me of where I started, and all that is possible. I can still be seduced by a good Napa Cab. But now?  Now I’m sure to take two Advil and a glass of water before slipping into the night. The headaches, cold bed and empty pack of smokes are gone from my life. Though I was at the Highline Ballroom recently to see Sister Sparrow and the Dirty Birds share a bill with Allen Stone. Anybody got a light?

No Excuses

After a brief conversation with Wall Street Journal columnist Lettie Teague, I realized it was time to pull the cork on a blog post for August.  Ms. Teague softly scolded me for my lack of new content in the month of August. And then did so publicly in today’s edition of the Wall Street Journal (Wines Words Worth Toasting). My high school football coach Richie Magdon used to say that excuses are like armpits, everybody has them and they all stink. His imagery was much cruder, but you get the idea.  Coach, my excuse for August doesn't stink. Actually, sometimes he does. But most of the time he is sweet smelling and handsome. His name is Lucas Joseph Troilo. My wife and I welcomed our third child into this crazy world on August 15th. Much of August has been spent preparing for Lucas’ arrival and dealing with the aftermath. There has been little time for writing, much less reflection. A house of five is much different than a house of four. However, with the celebration of his birth and the impending celebration of mine today, is there a better time to recount my favorite wines of the year? I've never done this before, perhaps we should go top ten all time bottles.  Next year, we'll see if any bottle gets bumped.  I should be so lucky.

10. 1995 Chateau Poujeaux Moulis En Medoc

The 1995 Chateau Poujeaux is the cornerstone of my European wine experience. It provided the “Ah-ha” moment in my wine career where I could begin to clearly delineate the difference between old-world and new-world wines. I remember referring to this wine in notes I wrote for the 1997 Waterbrook Melange penning “The Melange reminds of a middle region Bordeaux like Chateau Poujeaux. It possesses a soft elegance not seen in many wines produced this side of the Atlantic”.  My dad had questioned whether I copied the words from another source. I can still see the pride in his smile when he realized I penned it myself. Our sales of Melange and Poujeaux went through the roof and I was instantly drawn to wine industry.

9. 1991 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva Blanco

Not available in the Connecticut market until very recently, the wines of Lopez de Heredia are simply a must for anyone who claims they love Spanish wines. This wine was brought to my house for a summer party in 2010 by a new friend. He clearly knows how to get noticed at a party filled with wine geeks.

8. 1998 Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne

If the 1982 Domaine Leroy is the resurrection of my Burgundy problem (see below), Ghislaine Barthod is the root. I tasted this wine fresh off a trip to Oregon for Oregon Pinot Camp. Fully immersed into the world of Pinot Noir my palate was insufferably seeking more Pinot Noir experience. To this day I do not believe there is a better producer of Pinot Noir in the world. Her wines from the Chambolle Musigny district of Burgundy are some of the most sought after wines in the market. These aren’t fortune and glory wines. They are an ethereal experience coveted by subset of wine geeks. But they award only the patient collector. Ghislaine’s wines can be described in one word, damn sexy. Okay, two words.

7. 1997 Viader Proprietary Red

The wines produced by Delia Viader are perhaps some of the most profound, balanced and reliable wines I have experienced from California. The first vintage I purchased from the estate was the 1995. I never looked back, creating a vertical since that vintage. My only regret is lack of late evening self-control. Sadly my family has diminished its stock of ’95 and ’96 with only a few bottles of ’97 remaining.

6. 1990 Krug

Off to MetLife Stadium we go. My cousin was kind enough to share this on New Year's Day 2012 as we prepared to root the New York Giants to victory over the Dallas Cowboys and a playoff birth. Okay, I'll admit I don't remember much about the nuances of this wine but I remember it was one of the best I've had. Perhaps I can forgive my cousin for polishing off the magnum of ’97 Sequoia Grove at my rehearsal dinner.

5. 1994 Chateau Pichon Lougueville Pauillac

I feel bad for the Pichon, it was enjoyed after a 2010 New Year’s eve experience with the 1990 Latour. Forgive us, we knew not what we did. It was a memorable bottle nonetheless and certainly has plenty of room to grow. Displayed dark purple and garnet color. Deep black fruits, currant, blackberry and baked blueberry with notes of tobacco leaf and cedar. Weighty and dense on the palate with soft tannins and a lush finish.  Still plenty of time to mature.

4. 1990 Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon

I've been lucky enough to enjoy this gorgeous bottle of bubbles on numerous occasions: celebrating my family business' 20th anniversary at MetLife Stadium in the parking lot with my dad and brother and in a dusty back room office of the wine store on Christmas Eve 2011 with my staff are the most memorable. The wine is still in its infancy and holding its sparkle. I just wish more people understood mature Champagne. Many would think this wine is dead. I'm glad to have one more bottle.

3. 1995 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay

My wife and I married in 2003. The Talbott Sleepy Hollow was poured from a 5 Liter at our rehearsal dinner. As many stole the last sips of the '97 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve I had purchased on a trip to California in 2000 specifically for the occasion, my dad, brother and I hovered over the Talbott like thieves guarding their newly stolen treasure. It was glorious. And we despise California Chardonnay.  I'll never forgive my cousin for polishing off the last of the Sequoia Grove. Opps, I think I already did.

2. 1982 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot

This is the oldest bottle of Burgundy to hit my palate. It is singularly responsible for the resurrection of my Burgundy problem. First enjoyed at Thanksgiving 2008, I found the case tucked in a corner of my family's cellar. My brother gasped "Where'd that come from?" I answered, "Found it tucked in the corner". It seems to have subsequently disappeared, reminding me to change the locks. 

1. 1990 Chateau Latour Pauillac

New Year's Eve 2010. It's become tradition to have two of my best friends (coincidentally one of them is my knight in shining armor) for dinner. A quiet evening with great friends, good food, great wine, lots of music and laughter celebrating the end of a long holiday season. This is clearly the best bottle of wine I have ever enjoyed. Layered with fruit, spice and earth, its texture is so seamless and finish so refined, it has no descriptor or comparison. It is so choice, if you have the means, I highly recommend it.

So today I’ll celebrate my 35^th birthday (again). Those that have celebrated with me in the past know that I do so with reckless abandonment because another one is never guaranteed. I’ll be surrounded by family, friends and great wine all weekend. I can only hope that the trend continues for the next 365 days. Perhaps I can bump a few wines off this list. I guess that’s really up to me. No excuses.

Watch Your Back

Over the past three months I have tasted a variety of Canadian wines that have astounded me. Artisan Wines, a boutique wine supplier in Connecticut has bravely entered four Canadian producers into the Connecticut market. 13 total new labels in the State and not a single ice wine among them, I’d certainly consider that brave. The producers are Hidden Bench, Tawse, Flat Rock Cellars and Norman Hardie. The main focus is Chardonnay and Riesling but the Pinot Noirs are really coming into their own.

The wines hail from the Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County in Ontario. The climate is similar to Oregon though the growing season is slightly warmer and the winters are much colder. It’s just north of the Finger Lakes but thanks to the great warming influence of Lake Ontario, its far warmer in the late growing season. The soil is the real story. Over 450 million years of glaciations and retreat have yielded a soil tremendously rich in minerals. It is being captured by the wines.

The wines I have tasted so far have been mineral driven, varietally correct and complex. I tried, desperately, to fall in love with the 2010 Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir to no avail. Was I disappointed in the wine? Not at all, it is very good Pinot Noir in the $20 price group. The wine fell just a little flat on the palate. Its aromas are fantastic with floral and fruit notes and just a hint of smoke. Its youth does suggest it might develop the richness and depth on the palate that I was looking for. On the contrary, the 2009 Flat Rock Chardonnay was love at first sniff. Weight and texture while remaining mineral driven with lovely apple and lemon curd notes. This wine will develop nicely over the next few years. It’s just slightly nervous right now.

The 2009 Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay was simply stunning. Rich in texture with bright acidity keeping it focused. Baked apple and pear notes with a mineral mid palate leading to a long and graceful finish. The wine has me chomping at the bit to try the Riesling and the Chardonnay "Tete de Cuvée". It also has me thinking that California better watch their back. If Canada can consistently produce wines of this quality and get it on the shelf for $35, California will lose even more space on the shelves. The estate is run by Harald Thiel, who is widely regarded as one of the small, quality focused wineries that has helped bring the Niagara Peninsula into its modern age.

I urge you to try the wines from Norman Hardie. Norman is a South African that has produced wine in Burgundy, New Zealand and Oregon before deciding that Prince Edward County would be the place where he would create his mark. His name is being dropped in all the right circles and Toronto restaurants are buzzing with his wines. I've only tried the 2009 Prince Edward County Pinot Noir which was quite beautiful, reminiscent of young Volnay. Bright, floral and earthy with notes of bing cherry and smoke. It will be a pleasure to watch this wine and Mr. Hardie’s career develop.

Admittedly, I'm on a California bashing spree. Rightfully so. The wines offered from the righteous State of California coupled with their pricing are almost embarrassing. Egos are über inflated as sub-cultures of celebrity wine producers meld with celebrity Somms creating this alternate universe of exclusion, gluttony and greed. I'm reminded of a tweet posted by Cathy Corison that said something like "In the end all we have left to sell is our integrity.” Perhaps if more California producers could be as humble as Ms. Corison, we might see an end to this putrid era of basking in one’s grandeur and a return to integrity in California wines. Until then, they should watch their backs. Regions like the Niagara Peninsula are ready to take charge. Some of us are listening.

The Sunday Edition - A Vintage To Shine

Heartbreaking news hit the wire this week that sets a gloomy prediction for those with an affinity for either grower Champagne or Burgundy. Tremendously violent storms ripped through both areas causing the most damage in Aube and Beaune. The extent of the damage is not yet fully known, but reportedly the storms produced large hail and high winds. It seems Pommard, Volnay and Meursault were hit the hardest. Destroying upwards of 50% of the fruit. The timing could not be worse. These storms rip apart canopies and destroy fruit. Many are reporting mildew issues as well. 2012 is shaping up to be a challenging vintage for vineyard managers and wine-makers in these regions.

I love vintages like this. It's the kind of vintage that brings clarity, allowing the truly talented to shine in the face of so much adversity. The toughest challenge will be faced by those farming organically and/or bio-dynamically. Fighting off mildew will be quite a chore for them and they will face some very crucial decisions. Young stars like Ben Leroux, David Duband, Alexandrine Roy, Pierre Yves Colin Morey and Jean-Marie Fourrier will likely produce stunning wines. Their attention to detail in the vineyard will allow them to pick beautiful fruit and craft gorgeous examples of Pinot Noir. The downside, low yields. The upside, wonderfully balanced wines. In a vintage that many might end up describing as a total tragedy, look for these young stars to shine, proving that great wine is made with hard labor in the vineyards.

As news of the storms traveled, twitter feeds exploded with comments on pricing. Many erroroneously believe the wines will not be in high demand and pricing will finally drop. Don't bet on it. Crafting great wines in a challenging vintage is extraordinarily costly. Labor costs alone are enough for many to throw in the trowel. Production levels will likely be 50% below the norm. I've often advocated that prices for great wines from tough vintages should be more expensive than great wines from easy vintages. It's these wines that show the true talent of both vineyard manager and wine-maker. It's like the difference between Eli Manning and Tony Romo. As the challenges get tougher, one of them puts in extra work, the other goes on vacation with Jessica Simpson. Only one of them has two Super Bowl rings.

So for those with an affinity for grower Champagne or Burgundy,the news is bittersweet. We should see some truly remarkable wine-making and vineyard management skills from the 2012 vintage. However,the wines will be in short supply and likely a bit pricey. I'm personally going to stuff my cellar with both now and hope I can secure some terrific 2012 wines when they are released.

The Sunday Edition - The Latest Burgundian Punch to the Face

I have to admit that this week's The Sunday Edition took an unexpected turn last Saturday that caused a missed edition. Its original goal was to debunk the fact that a gigantic negoçiant such as Labouré-Roi could put a Nuits Saint George on the shelves of US stores for under $40 and do so legally. It was a knee jerk reaction to the latest scandal that threatens to rock Burgundy to its very foundation. You can read about the latest fraud accusations here.  As a self professing crazed Burgundy lunatic I prefer to let someone else tell the story. It saves me the anger and the vision of punching a Cottin square in the face screaming, "What the hell were you thinking? Do you really need the money that bad?" Then, throwing a couple of euros and a towel at him saying "Clean yourself up." Fade to reality.

I started researching the actual costs associated with importing a singular bottle of wine into the US and delivered to a Connecticut retailer for sale to the consumer. Considering cost of glass, cork, capsule, State and Federal excise tax, shipping cost and label registration, I've come up with a crude estimate of $4.16 per bottle. Keep in mind there is no wine in that bottle yet nor any margin taken by any layer of the necessary three tier system. Add in those margins. Give the importer 20%, the wholesaler 25% and the retailer 30%.  $4.16 is quickly $9.90.  There is still no wine in the bottle! Think about that the next time you blame sulfites for your hangover.

While researching this crude number I ran across an article on Seriouseats.com written by Terry Theise. Yes, the Champion of Champagne, the Rex of Riesling, The Terror of Terroir, need I go on? I can always count on Mr. Theise to derail the direction of most things I write. All levels of wine consumer should be forced to read this article and I implore you to do so.  It so very well explains what the smart and passionate wine shops of our area are trying to accomplish. Check out Part 1 and Part 2.

So what's this have to do with the Labouré-Roi scandal? In The Wine Spectator article, Sherry Lehmann COO Shyda Gilmer is quoted as saying, "It's so important. This destroys the core of Burgundy." and "This is bad for Burgundy-definitely damages Burgundy, but it's really destructive for Labouré-Roi". The Wine Spectator also reports that Sherry Lehmann has pulled the Labouré-Roi wines from their shelves. If you are one of the premier wine shops in New York City why are you carrying and offering your customers Labouré-Roi Burgundies in the first place? Big business, that’s why. The very existence of powerhouse negoçiants such as Labouré-Roi, Louis Jadot and Vincent Girardin is the root of the why such fraudulent activities take place. The scandal is NOT bad for Burgundy. It IS bad for negoçiants and powerhouse companies with shareholders to answer to.  It exposes the very real threat to the consumer that when you buy from powerhouse companies you can’t possibly know exactly what you are getting. Why? Because even they don’t know. Many don’t even care. Their only interest is in the bottom line.

In the article on Seriouseats.com Terry Theise comments, “So all in all, the best way to ensure you are actually paying for wine in and of itself, is to buy from small family Old World domains. You also enjoy the collateral benefit of keeping these lovely cultures alive and healthy.”  It’s something to consider the next time you reach for the “the brand you know” rather than the “other guy”. Remember, if you saw it advertised or saw a major media score, you’re paying for that. Wouldn’t you rather reward the farmer and winemaker than the ad agency? Of course, considering all this, maybe I should shake the hand of a Cottin and say “Thank you”. Perhaps they have opened the eyes of many.

A Little Sunrise R&R

Back in October, I stopped drinking coffee. It was a maddening effort to curb some uncomfortable issues with my stomach. After 6 months of trying to discover the root issue, sadly my love affair with coffee needed to be severed. I still cheat from time to time knowing, I'll pay for it later. Sometimes that morning coffee is just a necessity.  Obviously, I've had to alter my morning routines and found that peppermint tea was just the thing that perked up my mornings. However, this morning was especially warm and peppermint tea (hot or iced) just wasn't sounding appealing. So I grabbed my cocktail shaker.

I recently produced an event for one of my corporate clients. They were having a "party" in which roughly 400 employees would attend. I developed a bourbon bar, a vodka bar, a beer bar and a wine bar including specialty cocktails at both the bourbon and vodka bar. One of the cocktails at the bourbon bar was a modified R&R. I found the R&R in "Mix Shake Stir", a cocktail recipe book from Danny Meyer's acclaimed NYC restaurants. Here's the recipe:

R&R
Ice
8 raspberries
5.5 oz Bourbon Sweet Tea (recipe follows)
Fill a highball glass with ice. Thread three raspberries onto a small cocktail skewer and set aside. Put the remaining  5 raspberries in a cocktail shaker, add 5 drops of rose water and muddle with the raspberries. Add ice and the bourbon sweet tea. Shake vigorously and strain into the glass. Garnish with the skewer and serve.

Bourbon Sweet Tea
3 cups brewed black tea, chilled
2 cups Maker's Mark Bourbon
1/2 cup simple syrup
In a pitcher, combine the tea, bourbon, and simple syrup and stir to mix well. The tea will keep, covered in the refrigerator, for up to 3 days. Makes enough for 8 drinks.

Because we couldn't accurately estimate how much bourbon sweet tea would be used, I had the bartenders make it on a per drink basis which cut back on waste at the event (always have to watch that bottom line). The cocktail was gloriously refreshing on a day when temperatures topped 101 degrees and the evening dropped to 85 degrees with high humidity.

Earlier this week, I decided to make the cocktail at home. However, brewing a batch of bourbon sweet tea with a pregnant wife at home is not exactly the nicest thing to do, nor is it a healthy relationship move. So I brewed a pitcher of decaf black tea and chilled it. Then I substituted Michter's US 1 Bourbon for the Marker's Mark. As I walked into the living room with a tall glass of this cocktail, I felt the stare of woman 30 weeks pregnant in the searing heat. So back into the kitchen I went. I made her one in the same minus the bourbon putting a big smile on her face and points on the board.

So what does all this have to do with the fact that I don't drink coffee anymore? This morning, instead of reaching for the coffee pot or the blender, I reached for my cocktail shaker. It felt as good as a coffee pot and far better than a blender. The icy stainless steel freezing my hands, sending shivers down my arms. Each time I sipped my Sunrise R&R (R&R minus the bourbon) I wondered if anyone else in traffic used their cocktail shaker this morning, smiled and dreamed of the R&R at days end.

The Sunday Edition - It's a Good Start

Connecticut State Governor Dan Malloy recently signed a bill that has changed the face of the Connecticut wine and spirits business. The new bill allows those operating under a "package store" permit to do the following:

• Connecticut General Statutes Section 30-68m, as amended by Public Act 12-17, allows the holder of a package store permit, grocery store beer permit, or druggist liquor permit to sell one beer item or one item of alcoholic liquor below cost each month, provided that item is not discounted more than 10%. 
• With the signing of Public Act 12-17 by Governor Malloy, certain sections of the new law take effect immediately. Package stores may now be open on Sundays from 10:00am to 5:00pm. It also allows for package stores to now be open on Memorial Day, Independence Day, and Labor Day from 8:00am to 9:00pm. It also allows package stores to be open on the Mondays following any Independence Day, Christmas, or New Year’s Day which falls on a Sunday.
• With the enactment of Public Act 12-17, the following commodities may also be offered for sale, in addition to what was previously allowed to be sold in package stores, effective July 1, 2012: o Complementary fresh fruits used in the preparation of mixed alcoholic beverages; o Cheese or crackers, or both; o Olives o Common examples of complementary fresh fruits used in the preparation of mixed alcoholic beverages include, but are not limited to, lemons and limes.  
• Effective July 1, 2012, Sec. 30-20, Connecticut General Statutes, as amended by Public Act 12-17, also provides that package stores may conduct fee-based wine education and tasting classes at the store during the days and hours they are allowed to be open to sell alcoholic liquor.

The bill is a very good first step at improving the wine consumer’s experience, but Connecticut consumers are still slighted by the higher prices relative to our neighboring states. Higher taxation, lack of volume discounting and floor prices all keep Connecticut from being a competitive wine market.  The financial position of the State of Connecticut will negate any lowering of the excise tax. That would be a fiscally smart decision by Connecticut Governor Dan Malloy.  But the Governor has every intention of fighting for a change in legislation.  The Connecticut Package Store Association (of which I am not a member) will raise their dukes and fight back. The CPSA's position is that the removal of minimum price standards and allowance of volume discount pricing would force the closure of many smaller package stores thus leading to higher unemployment and loss of revenue for the State of Connecticut.  

The CPSA is right.  Changing the legislation will cause the closure of many smaller package stores unable to compete with the mega stores in the state.  But what the organization fails to recognize is positive effect such legislation would have on the quality wine and spirits stores across the State.  The legislation would rid the state of pretenders, fence riders and packies. Using those terms requires definition. WARNING: Some may find this offensive but if you think I'm speaking less than the truth, please feel free to comment.  

Pretenders
Internet based retailers whose shelves are stocked with loss leaders and name brand high ticket items in the hopes of attracting high profile email addresses. Their websites list everything available in the State of Connecticut at an average 15% margin but rarely have access to the wine or knowledge to sell it.  

Fence Riders
Retailers that are brick and mortar based with solid business models but can't decide if they are a discount store or a serious wine shop. The majority of their inventory is big market brands but will occasionally risk a stack of obscure wines to test the waters. They offer little to no innovation and often ride the coat tails of the innovative quality wine shops.

Packies
Retailers whose primary business is pints, half pints, 30 packs and kegs.

Clearly, my desire to see the riddance of many of these retailers is swayed by the fact that, yes, I am a retailer. However, the CPSA should also take a close look at our neighboring states whose laws allow volume discounting and no price minimums. There seem to be plenty of "mom and pop" stores. There are also plenty of pretenders, fence riders and packies as well. Certainly smaller stores survive under these laws. 

A word of warning to consumers: be careful what you wish for.  Volume discounting and the repeal of minimum price standard might have the opposite of the intended effect on esoteric wines.  Furthermore, you will be hard pressed to find esoteric wines without visiting a more specialized wine store. Typically in Connecticut, wholesale wine prices are set at the 5 case volume discount price of the surrounding states. This allows Connecticut retailers to competitively price all wines in their portfolio with surrounding markets. Should Governor Malloy succeed in the fight to allow volume discounting, consumers are likely to see a price increase in esoteric wine selections. Esoteric wines are generally not purchased in five case quantities. These products are more likely to be ordered in 3 case quantities or more so, one case quantities. Ordering product at these levels increases the cost to the retailer ultimately increasing the cost to the consumer. To grasp the concept a bit more clearly, think about shopping for quality cheese. You can certainly find edible cheeses for everyday use at the grocery store and be somewhat satisfied with what you purchase. But to find the really good stuff you have to go to your local cheese monger. You know you pay a premium for their cheese but you also know you can't get that cheese, level of service or knowledge at the grocery store (yes, even if you try Whole Foods). Eliminating the ban on volume discounts and minimum prices increases the likelihood that prices on esoteric and premium wines will rise.

But wait, there's more.  The State of Connecticut can push forward and become innovative in its liquor laws if it could find a way to get the following done (please note these are concepts I've created and not actually on the table) :

• Allow retailers and restaurateurs to purchase private collections for resale. 
• Allow retailers and restaurateurs to purchase small amounts of wine directly from wineries   

There are a host of difficulties in trying in writing and passing such groundbreaking legislation. Epic battles will have to be waged with high powered and well financed lobby groups for the big suppliers in Connecticut.  I understand the fears of the big suppliers. They are threatened by the loss of business if stores can stock their shelves with private collections and purchase small amounts of wine direct from wineries.  However, allowing these conditions increases competition and forces big suppliers to actually service accounts large and small. It would hold suppliers accountable for their actions simply by offering retailers and restaurateurs a choice to move in a different direction. In fact, one can surmise that much of the liquor code in Connecticut is unconstitutional, supports monopolies, protects only the supplier and is more crooked than ever due to its archaic laws. Furthermore, it would provide a better environment for the consumer by forcing a more competitive market, increasing choice, and increasing quality. The Connecticut Department of Liquor Control is a division of Connecticut Department of Consumer Protection (DCP).  The purpose of the DCP is to, well, protect the customer and create fair and competitive markets. This type of legislation would do just that.  But the devil is in the details. The legislation needs to be written so that all parties are protected and can support the bill. Here are some things to consider.  

Allow the Purchase of Private Collections for Resale
Currently, Connecticut retailers and restaurants can only purchase goods for resale from Connecticut licensed wholesalers whose inventories are rife with young wines. Allowing the purchase of private collections would improve restaurant wine lists and store portfolios bringing more business to Connecticut. Obviously this takes revenue out of suppliers’ pockets and the Department of Revenue Services is going to wonder how it collects. So let's limit the amount that can be purchased per year and put the onus of tax payment on the buyer.

• Cap purchases at $500,000 per permit per calendar year.
• Purchaser needs to register the purchase details with the State and have it approved before any money changes hands. 
• Purchaser pays excise tax on purchase. 
• Fee to the State associated with approval of sale is $500. 
• Stipulations of approval: 
• The wines being purchased are not currently available through a wholesaler within 2 vintages.   

Allow the Purchase of Small Lots Directly From Wineries
Connecticut is stuck in a sticky place. It's smack in the middle of two vibrant wine markets, Boston and New York City.  One might think its location would make it a hotbed for small production wine sales given that many who work and dine in these cities actually live and shop in Connecticut. However, high registration fees and lack of supplier vision keep many wineries from entering the State.  Why bother when they can easily sell their wine in surrounding markets and be more profitable. Enter the small wine store and new legislation. Allow retailers and restaurateurs to purchase small lots of wines directly from the winery. This may sound as if I'm advocating the abolishment of the three tier system but, as I've stated before, nothing could be further from the truth. I'll be perfectly clear; the three tier system is a necessary economic conditioner for the success of the wine industry as a whole. That's not to say we can't tweak it a little bit. Here are the stipulations:

• The winery is not currently represented by a wholesaler in the State.
• The winery's total production is less than 5,000 cases. 
• No terms are extended. All sales are C.O.D. 
• The sale must be registered and approved by the State prior to shipment.
• The retailer or restaurateur is responsible for the excise tax payable within 15 days after approval of the sale.
•  The retailer or restaurateur is limited to 20 registrations in a calendar year.   

These two pieces of legislation, coupled with the allowance of volume discounting and the riddance of price minimums, could greatly improve the landscape of the Connecticut wine market for the consumer, retailer and restaurateur.  It would bring jobs to Connecticut, increase sales tax revenues, increase excise tax revenues and registration fees. It can accomplish these tasks if the right people are behind it and others have the courage to stand up for it. But there seems to be a lack of courage in this industry.  Too many fear the suppliers and their power.  Too many fear failure.  So who will stand up for the consumer? I know a few. Revolutions are started in such ways, a revolution for the consumer and for those passionate about wine and spirits. A revolution that could pass a piece of legislation so ground breaking that could lead the way for sweeping liquor law reform across the nation. Okay, maybe that's a bit grandiose but it's a good start.

Just A Spectator

One has to wonder where Matt Kramer, writer for The Wine Spectator, is shopping and dining lately. In an article posted on May 15^th 2012 (link here), Mr. Kramer bashed restaurants, and retailers citing high prices on “by the glass” (BTG) programs and advised customers to shop around.

“Let me be blunt: If you go to a restaurant and buy a wine by the glass, you’re a chump.”  - Matt Kramer

Well I guess Mr. Kramer must be dining at the likes of The Olive Garden and TGI Friday’s. It’s not too hard to scour the internet and find restaurants that are running successful BTG programs both here in CT and beyond. I wonder what wine directors such as Rajat Parr, Michael Madrigale, Gretchen Thomas, Steven Semaya and Rebecca Banks think about Mr. Kramer’s assessment of BTG programs? My bet is it’s a one fingered or two word response.

Mr. Kramer does tell some truths that most restaurants wouldn’t deny or even try to defend. The reason for high pricing for BTG programs is simple economics and business survival. Opening a singular bottle of wine for one glass is a risk. If the bottle sours before another glass is poured, all the profit from the bottle is lost. A restaurant needs to recover its cost from glass one to mitigate risk. It’s a simple formula that has worked for decades. If the restaurant is not recovering its cost from glass one, well, it’s not going to be around for long. A restaurant is a business. Businesses exist for profit, not for loss. Suggesting that restaurant BTG programs make “highway robbery look like a misdemeanor” shows a lack of business knowledge and simple economics. And just to drive the point home, Mr. Kramer also commented “…but have you noticed that prices have gone up commensurately?” Perhaps Mr. Kramer would like to see the wholesale costs for wine across the country. Wines that were once $96 per case wholesale have risen to $112 and $118. That’s an almost 20% increase in wholesale prices. But I guess Mr. Kramer expects restaurants and retailers eat the cost of inflation. Of course, he does nothing to offer advice on ordering from BTG programs. He is, after all, just a spectator.

Here’s some useful advice when ordering wine “by the glass”. It can be a tricky business. However, if you’re dining at the right restaurants you can easily navigate the list and find something enjoyable to drink.

1. Ask to have a small taste of the wine you’re interested in. If you don’t like it, you’re your server/bartender why and ask them to make a suggestion that might better suit your palate.
2. Go outside your comfort zone. Many hidden gems can be found in “by the glass” programs as the selections tend to be something the wine director really felt strongly about. It’s an opportunity to unearth a new wine for your own list.
3. Ask your bartender/server what’s the hottest wine on their list. Often times that wine will be the freshest and is guaranteed to please if it’s what you’re in the mood for.
4. Don’t be afraid to say “I think this wine is past its prime. Could you open a fresh bottle?” Often times, bartenders or servers don’t know how long the wine has been open and may not realize it should be put to pasture.

 “They Don’t Want You to Know That You Should Shop Around for the Best Price” - Matt Kramer

No other statement could infuriate me more than such a blatant attack on the small retailers in the wine business. Mr. Kramer fails to recognize the economic, lifestyle and industrial consequences behind such a statement. Yes, it is certainly true that the current laws governing the shipping of wine between states is changing almost monthly. And yes, there are many on-line retailers that will sell you a bottle for pennies above cost and offer you free shipping. However, does that website understand your own individual palate? Do they know you’re a New York Ranger fan and wish you luck as the puck drops for game 5? Will they offer to deliver those two cases you ordered to your house before you head to the islands for the weekend? Do they know the names of your kids? The likely answer is no!

Recently, I posted the following two comments on my Facebook page

“Here's a thought, you’re careful where you buy your food, your technology and your car. Why aren't you as discerning about where you buy your wine? Buying from flash sale sites and discounters supports fraud, dishonesty and in extreme cases, criminality.”

 “Sure, you could go to that liquor store down the street tonight and taste the same boring shit they always pour and buy the same bottle you always buy. Or you could come to my store and learn about Sylvaner, taste a new Viognier and Cote du Rhone from Rhone's hottest new team and one bad ass Nebbiolo from the Langhe in Italy. Expand and learn or just another bottle of blah. Your choice.”

By shopping on flash sale sites, big box discounters and chain stores, consumers are cheating the small retailer who will gladly open Sylvaner, Condrieu and Cairgnane in an effort to educate and expand palates. These retailers provide a higher level of professionalism, service and knowledge. But these qualities come at a price. High quality organic foods, well machined automobiles, streamlined technology, the hottest designer clothes and shoes are difficult to produce, difficult to distribute efficiently and difficult to service. So are high quality, well made wines. That doesn’t mean one has to spend a fortune to experience these wines. They can still be found at $12 per bottle. They just can’t be found in the big box discounters and chains. Why? Because they generally have no press and require a staff that can speak to the wine and how it tastes. That staff is expensive. If you are concerned about high prices for the wine you’re buying, shop around, find a reasonable price and ask YOUR retailer if he can match it. Odds are he/she can at least get close. And remember, if the deal looks to good to be true, it probably is. In an age where Burgundy houses make statements questioning the validity of any Burgundy bottling with a vintage dating 1985 or earlier, provenance in the wine industry is as important as ever. Find out where the wine has been and how many people have handled it. Of course, Mr. Kramer doesn’t offer this advice because he’d rather the consumer rely on the publication he writes to strike fear in the consumer and sell more magazines.

Finally, regarding the issue of “premox”, Mr. Kramer is right. There are many white Burgundies that have prematurely reached their decline. These wines fooled many of us including, ironically, The Wine Spectator who routinely suggested these wines would last years. The current condition of older vintage white Burgundy will make us question the longevity of certain wines in the future. But it is precisely the reason I have always advocated the purchase of cases and suggested clients pull from those cases on a regular basis to determine how the wines are progressing. Smart merchants will learn from failure and adjust recommendations accordingly. But I don’t see Mr. Kramer offering that advice. He is, after all, just a spectator. 

Bittersweet Brunello

Recently, a customer asked me to research the availability of 2006 Brunello di Montalcino in the marketplace. I was shocked at my findings. Not only is there a tremendous amount of variety available, but the depth of inventory carried by the suppliers is incredible. The majority of the 2006 wines entered the market place in early to mid 2011. Market conditions suggested these wines wouldn’t last a New York minute. An aggregated score of 97 from The Wine Advocate certainly had the industry buzzing. The buzz between wholesalers and retailers was that ’06 Brunello di Montalcino might help jump start an anemic market and maybe boost the holiday season if the cards fell in the place. With excellent production levels, there would be enough wine for everyone to get a piece of the pie and create their own niche. The current level of inventories suggests that 06 Brunello never really took off the way it we all expected it to. The news is bittersweet.

The Sweet Side

Obviously the news is fantastic for anyone with an affinity for Brunello. The 2006 vintage is the best in over 2 decades. Vintages since 2006 have not been nearly as successful.  Purchasing high quality Brunello after the wines disappear will be rather difficult.  Furthermore, prices have been stable. Given the economic conditions that have persisted over the last 5 years, there has been no room for inflation. The market wouldn’t bear it. A decision to raise prices would have would have buried Brunello. High scoring wines are selling at a fraction of the price when compared to their California or French counterparts. Prices start at $30 per bottle and creep up from there. Find a sweet spot and go for it! It’s clearly the vintage to own. For those that have already dipped your toes in the proverbial water, you might consider diving in. Owning a diverse collection of 2006 Brunello di Montalcino will bring years of great drinking.

The Bitter Side

From my chair, the current condition creates more analysis work then I really wish to put effort into. Four years ago, Montalcino suffered a scandal that may have rocked it to its very foundation. An undisclosed amount of wineries were investigated for allegedly blending either cabernet or merlot into their wines – a practice that is very much prohibited in Montalcino. Could this be the cause of the sluggish movement of Brunello di Montalcino? I’m not sure you can really put the blame of sluggish sales on a hangover from a scandal that occurred 4 years ago and has clearly been dealt with. Furthermore, I’m not quite sure how widespread news of the scandal is. When the news first broke it certainly sent shockwaves through the professional wine market. But how much does the consumer know? I would suspect that 80% of the reason for this lack of demand is the overall glut of excellent wine that flooded the marketplace:

• Back to back “must have” vintages from California
• The powerful ’09 Chateauneuf du Pape vintage that many built their career on.
• Spain’s reemergence as a powerhouse
• The greatly hyped ‘10 Bordeaux.

Consumer email inboxes are flooded on a daily basis with a dizzying amount of wine offers. The heads of consumers are spinning with a lack of focus and zero guidance. With the emergence of discount services such as Wines Till Sold Out, Bin Ends, Lot 18 and Cinderella Wines, the dialogue has become a shouting match of point scores, half off deals and penny shipping. It’s a condition that allows a vintage like 2006 in Montalcino to get lost in the shuffle. But it’s also a condition that favors these internet cowboys. As inventories of 2006 Brunello di Montalcino continue to languish in warehouses across the country, you can bet your bottom dollar that some importers will be nervous and look to strike a deal at the advisement of their bank – advantage discounters. But then there are smart retailers who will look to take this issue to task and suggest that if you are a wine lover with an affinity for Brunello di Montalcino, now’s the time to strike.

As for the remaining 20% of reasoning I can only speculate but I won’t for two reasons: I don’t like to speculate and the details of said speculation are chilling. I’ll give you a hint though, it has something to do with how most Americans are purchasing wine these days and spells doom for the industry. For now, forget the fire and brim stone (I’ll get to that later) and get your hands on some Brunello. Here are some recommendations:

2006 Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino - $60.00

2006 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino - $76.00

2006 Renieri Brunello di Montalcino - $31.00

2006 Collematoni Brunello di Montalcino - $100.00

2006 Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino - $77.00

2006 Nardi Brunello di Montalcino - $80.00

2006 Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino - $80.00

2006 Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino - $43.00

2006 Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino - $33.00

2006 Siro Pacenti “Pelagrilli” Brunello di Montalcino - $59.00

2006 San Filippo “Le Lucere” Brunello di Montalcino - $65.00

A Chance Encountner With A Zinfandel Icon

At the beginning of March, I spent a few days in Utah chasing its elusive (at least to me) Champagne powder. I had rented a condo with a group of college friends with the intention of escaping the wine industry altogether. Great Colorado beer and lots of skiing was the stated agenda. Yes, I realize the irony of Colorado beer in Utah but Colorado just plain brews better beer, most of which I can’t get in CT. It seems the escape from the wine industry was just as elusive as the powder. As I arrived in Utah one of my buddies announced that our condo neighbor was a winemaker, but he had failed to get his name. The next evening I found myself swirling and sipping with none other than zinfandel icon Kent Rosenblum. What are the odds I would travel 1,900 miles, stay at condo that is removed from the hubbub of Salt Lake City and Park City and my next door neighbor would be one of the most famous zinfandel producers in the country? Kent and I had a blast trading industry war stories and swapping strategies of change within the industry. Of course, most of the conversations I can't reveal (what happens in UT...) and some I may not accurately remember (blame the 16.5% abv). For the record, I still made the first chair. What I do recall is that the 2003 Rosenblum Monte Rosso Zinfandel blew me away. I’ve always been a firm believer that good zinfandel can age gracefully and develop beautiful character. A recent experience with a 1976 Ridge (thank you DF) had proved the theory. The 2003 Monte Rosso was practicing it. Perhaps my love of zinfandel has been rekindled. When I returned to work I immediately sought out current vintages of the Monte Rosso and the Paso Robles. I sought out the Monte Rosso for comparison reasons. The Paso Robles was purely sentimental. It brought me back to my younger days of sharing steaks and zinfandels (yes, plural) with my friends before hitting the bars. I'm too old for that now. But I can still enjoy the steak and zinfandel (singular).

2006 Rosenblum Cellars Monte Rosso Zinfandel

Big flavor full throttled zinfandel highlighting baked cherry, vanilla extract, and molasses. There’s real structure here with the brazen fruit supported by a perfect balance of acidity. Certainly carries plenty of weight on the palate but without overstaying its welcome. The finish maintains the full throttle approach with good spice and silky tannins. At 16.2% alcohol I would expect a burny, spicy zin. Instead, winemaker John Kane has masked that alcohol very well and would be a great match for braised short ribs, creamy risottos or a big porterhouse steak. I suspect this will last into 2015 and beyond but you shouldn’t be afraid to drink it now.

There are only 5 cases in the market

2008 Rosenblum Cellars Paso Robles Zinfandel

A mild, more toned-down version of the Rosenblum portfolio. Bright cherry and rhubarb fruit backed by gripping acidity. Through the mid-palate it develops deeper, darker fruit that leans more toward plum and prune. The finish is decidedly spicy with black pepper and shows off more plum fruit with a silky undertone. I liken this to the well mannered, soft temper third child. Every once in awhile they do something unexpected to show you their wild side. Just to keep you on your toes. It’s certainly worth having around the house. Plenty of inventory in CT.

Recommended Colorado Craft Beers:

When most return from a trip to Colorado they gush about the Fat Tire and Sunshine Wheat produced by New Belgium Brewing. And yes, I'll agree those craft beers are delicious. But here are some craft brews made in Colorado that are a little more off the beaten path and outstanding.

Odell Brewing 90 Shilling Ale

Odell Brewing Easy Street Wheat

Left Hand Brewing Sawtooth Ale

Left Hand Brewing Milk Stout 

Left Hand Brewing NITRO Milk Stout

You can find Left Brewing brews in select NYC stores.

The Search For A Barthod Replacement Ends

After unsuccessfully chasing Utah powder for a week I’m back in the saddle. On Sunday night,  I received a random text from my liaison to Michael Skurnik Wines. The text simply said “Traveling with Alexandrine Roy tomorrow. You gonna be in?” Monday is my usual “day off” but how can I refuse the opportunity to taste the 2010 offerings of Domaine Marc Roy with the winemaker? In short, if you are looking for elegant, classic, refined pinot noir from Burgundy the 2010 vintage offerings from Domaine Marc Roy will end your search. Need more? Read on.

One of the pilfered.

Many years ago I began a love affair with the wines of Ghislaine Barthod. Her wines from the Chambolle Musigny district of Burgundy were the best pinot noirs I have ever put on my palate. They are sexy, ethereal and captivating. But I lost access to her wines because of a drawn out dispute with the US importer and have found myself searching for a replacement. That 5 year search has ended. My first introduction to Domain Marc Roy was the 2009 vintage. I introduced the wine to the shelves of my store about this time last year. Drawn to Alexandrine’s feminine, yet rustic and minimalist approach to pinot noir, I found myself pilfering bottles of the 2009 Domain Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes from the shelves each time we restocked. The estate has been bottling its own wines since 1982, yet its history is much deeper. Alexandrine is the fourth generation of her family to farm the estates in both Gevrey-Chambertin and Marsannay and has been the winemaker since 2003. I could talk ad nauseum about her winemaking techniques, but like all great pinot noir producers her approach is simple: do the work in the vineyard and your work in the cellar is easy. In her words, “I like classic pinot noir; too much color and extraction is not pinot.” Her 2010 vintage was very successful though quantity was lower than usual. It proved to be a vintage that required small yields in order to achieve full phenolic ripeness. She admits the vintage had a tough start with early rains that stalled flowering but those that remained patient and cut their yields reaped the rewards of gorgeous fruit producing textbook Burgundy. Ms. Roy is far from a “rock star” producer. She’s soft spoken, preferring instead to let her wines do the talking, allowing them to be the stars. She is one of the few female winemakers in Burgundy and credits that to the luck of being an only child. And while soft spoken and gentle something tells me Ms. Roy has a bit a wild side, riding fast and taking risks. In that regard, she reminds me of Nicolas Potel. Her wines are not widely distributed so I consider us lucky to have access to them. They will require at least six months before opening as they have just arrived and are a little nervous from the travel. While I don’t believe the wines are built for the long haul, I do believe that 5-8 years of cellaring will yield enchanting pinot noir.

2010 Domain Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin “Vieilles Vignes”

Ms. Roy’s “village” level wine if you will. A terrific effort with bright raspberry and fresh flower aromas leaping from the glass. These aromas transfer to the palate but the addition of mineral and clay add weight, fine grained tannins add structure. More raspberry fruit with a touch of sour cherry rounded by silky smooth tannins on a captivating finish.

2010 Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin “Clos Prieur”
From 50 year old vines the Clos Prieur is a bit more masculine than the Vieilles Vignes. More weight and fight on the palate. Aromas of bright cherry, dried sage and mushroom. The palate is filled with cherry fruit that is provided structure by the well integrated tannins. Minerality appears on the finish giving the wine polish and grip. Awesome pinot noir.

2010 Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey Chambertin “Cuvee Alexandrine”
This tiny production is considered Ms. Roy’s “Grand Cru”. A nose of dark cherry framed by a distinct note of wood and earth. The palate is the heaviest of all showing dark fruits wrapped in a core of soft wood and smoke notes. It’s framed by a distinct minerality giving it the polish of the Clos Prieur but the tannic structure gives the finish a round and supple feel. Stunning.

Can West Coast Wines Be Saved?

The title is slightly sensationalist, agreed. Destiny will someday move me west to become part of the wine scene 2,980 miles from where I grew up. Right now my heart (palate) rejects the idea. Lack of west coast representation on my shelves is not an accident. I find the majority of what I taste simplistic. There is no degree of difficulty analyzing over-extracted, highly concentrated wines made to slap your palate with happy fruit and leave it wanting. But the times they are a-changing and hope may be restored. Perhaps I might be able to chase that destiny after all.

 “New World wines push you prone onto a chair and give you a lap dance, no touching” – Terry Theise

Yes, I’m reading Terry Theise’s “Reading Between the Vines” again. And yes, he’s got me all fired up again. His statement is a rather profound and engaging depiction of the current state of west coast wines. Not too long ago, west coast cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and chardonnay actually exhibited grace and elegance. Estates such as Chateau Montelena, Heitz Cellars, Signorello Vineyards, Van Duzer, Sokol Blosser and Rex Hill produced stylistic wines that rivaled many of the great wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy that were produced at the time. Shoot, the wines were less expensive than Bordeaux and Burgundy AND you were buying American! Somewhere along the line it all went horribly wrong. While I won’t point my finger in any one direction, I think many of us know who’s to blame. My thirst for Oregon pinot noir is all but quenched. The excitement for Napa Valley cabernet has strayed. Sonoma chardonnay – what’s the big deal? Adding fuel to my frustration, west coast producers were handed a golden opportunity to win the hearts of every American consumer - and they blew it, almost every single one of them. More on that later, but here’s a two word clue – imported inflation.

From my chair, the market for west coast wines can simply be divided into two categories:  “homogenized top scoring” wines aimed at pleasing the palates of certain groups and “think tank marketing solution” wines aimed at flooding the market with mediocre products to elevate the prestige of the top scoring wines. The purpose of the former is to line the pockets of certain media groups so as to render glowing reviews. Once those reviews are in, the large discount stores purchase as much as their budgets will allow and sell the wines for pennies on the dollar. They do this in hopes of attracting new customers whom they can, in turn, sell the mediocre wines to for margins that might rival the textile industry.

Not all is lost. Here are four producers that are producing wines of exceptional character and grace. Their wines are restoring my faith in the west coast producers and maybe, just maybe, rekindled a flame that used to burn deep in the palate of my soul. Each wine begged to be savored with each sip. Each asked to be studied. Each danced with me, not for me (borrowed from Thiese). So I set out to learn a little bit more about each winemaker. Below is some brief information. These talented people are setting what should be the new direction in west coast wine production. Now if we can just get some brave souls to apprentice under them. The even better news is that production is small enough were they really don’t need the media to sell their wines. They just need passionate merchants and passionate consumers. Good thing they are in the right place.

Anthony Filiberti 
Anthony is the current winemaker at Anthill Farms Winery and Knez Winery in California. He has also worked for Lynne Penner Ash and Josh Bergstrom in Oregon followed by a stint at William – Sylem. Anthony’s focus on clean, correct wines that show the true expression of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is unmatched in California. He is working his tail off to produce wines with a “hands on” approach in the vineyard and a “hands off” approach in the barrel room. The wines are still a little high in alcohol but Anthony creates just the right balance of fruit to mask the alcohol without adding unnecessary weight and volume. You should be watching his career closely.

 

Jim Maresh 
Jim is the young phenom winemaker at Arterberry Maresh that is taking domestic pinot noir by storm. It really shouldn’t be all that surprising. The guy literally grew up around Pinot Noir. His late father, Fred Arterberry Jr., was a Pinot pioneer in the 1980's. Jim's wine operation is currently a one man band supported by family. His grandfather helps him farm the land, his mom helps with the accounting, and his legions of winemaking friends help him with production. Jim has apprenticed with a veritable who’s who of Oregon winemaking and honestly, I think he is now on that list. If you love Oregon Pinot Noir and you don’t know who this guy is, you’re not trying very hard. At just 28 years old he has racked up award after award for his wines and they are clearly building a cult following. Jim is producing what I believe to be the best domestic chardonnay available. His pinot noirs are down right cerebral. There’s a rumor the guy speaks eight languages. I mean come on! Now that’s just piling it on.

Eric Demuth and Peter Kemos 
“Two guys, one truck, one forklift, 800 square feet of winery space.” That’s it. It’s about as small production as it gets. The winery began in 2004 when longtime friends Eric and Peter vinified their first vintage. Eric’s roots in the industry date back to 1982 when he helped plant his family’s former estate vineyard in the Anderson Valley. He remained actively involved at Demuth Vineyard through the construction of the winery, and finally the production of their first estate wines some 20 years later. It was the frequent visits as a guest and seasonal helper to this vineyard dating back to the early 90’s that sparked Peter’s interest and passion for wine, and ultimately led to this collaboration. Their approach is similar to Anthony Filiberti’s, hands on in the vineyard, hands off in the winery. Most impressive is the 22 – 24 month oak aging, a process that allows their current release cabernets to be softer and more approachable upon release. It’s a very favorable condition for the consumer, though I’m sure the banks hate it.

Pam Walden 
Ms. Walden is the owner of Daedalus Cellars in Willamette Valley Oregon. There are some changes being made at Daedalus. In fact, 2010 will be the last vintage. The wines were made by Aron Hess and Pam Walden but the project is being halted. Instead, Pam will be producing wines solely from her own vineyard holdings. The first vintage will be 2011 and feature just one Pinot Noir with the possibility of a reserve bottling. Pam is a bit “obsessive” about her vineyard management and winemaking. The wines she produced with Aron under the Daedalus Cellars label were beautifully crafted wines floral in tone with a striking balance of fruit and weight. Though I’ll be sad to not see the Daedalus wines on my shelf after the 2010 vintage, I look forward to Pam’s newest project and am excited to hear they will be produced with nothing but estate grown fruit!