After a brief conversation with Wall
Street Journal columnist Lettie Teague, I realized it was time to pull the cork
on a blog post for August. Ms. Teague
softly scolded me for my lack of new content in the month of August. And then
did so publicly in today’s edition of the Wall Street Journal (Wines Words Worth Toasting). My high school football coach Richie Magdon used to say that
excuses are like armpits, everybody has them and they all stink. His imagery
was much cruder, but you get the idea. Coach,
my excuse for August doesn't stink. Actually, sometimes he does. But most of
the time he is sweet smelling and handsome. His name is Lucas Joseph Troilo. My
wife and I welcomed our third child into this crazy world on August 15th. Much
of August has been spent preparing for Lucas’ arrival and dealing with the
aftermath. There has been little time for writing, much less reflection. A
house of five is much different than a house of four. However, with the
celebration of his birth and the impending celebration of mine today, is there
a better time to recount my favorite wines of the year? I've never done this
before, perhaps we should go top ten all time bottles. Next year, we'll see if any bottle gets
bumped. I should be so lucky.
10. 1995 Chateau Poujeaux Moulis En Medoc
The 1995 Chateau Poujeaux is the
cornerstone of my European wine experience. It provided the “Ah-ha” moment in
my wine career where I could begin to clearly delineate the difference between
old-world and new-world wines. I remember referring to this wine in notes I
wrote for the 1997 Waterbrook Melange penning “The Melange reminds of a middle
region Bordeaux
like Chateau Poujeaux. It possesses a soft elegance not seen in many wines
produced this side of the Atlantic”. My dad had questioned whether I copied the
words from another source. I can still see the pride in his smile when he
realized I penned it myself. Our sales of Melange and Poujeaux went through the
roof and I was instantly drawn to wine industry.
9. 1991 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia
Reserva Blanco
Not available in the Connecticut market until very recently, the
wines of Lopez de Heredia are simply a must for anyone who claims they love
Spanish wines. This wine was brought to my house for a summer party in 2010 by
a new friend. He clearly knows how to get noticed at a party filled with wine
geeks.
8. 1998 Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne
If the 1982 Domaine Leroy is the
resurrection of my Burgundy problem (see
below), Ghislaine Barthod is the root. I tasted this wine fresh off a trip to Oregon for Oregon Pinot
Camp. Fully immersed into the world of Pinot Noir my palate was insufferably
seeking more Pinot Noir experience. To this day I do not believe there is a
better producer of Pinot Noir in the world. Her wines from the Chambolle
Musigny district of Burgundy are some of the most sought after wines in the
market. These aren’t fortune and glory wines. They are an ethereal experience
coveted by subset of wine geeks. But they award only the patient collector. Ghislaine’s
wines can be described in one word, damn sexy. Okay, two words.
7. 1997 Viader Proprietary Red
The wines produced by Delia Viader are
perhaps some of the most profound, balanced and reliable wines I have
experienced from California.
The first vintage I purchased from the estate was the 1995. I never looked back,
creating a vertical since that vintage. My only regret is lack of late evening self-control.
Sadly my family has diminished its stock of ’95 and ’96 with only a few bottles
of ’97 remaining.
6. 1990 Krug
Off to MetLife Stadium we go. My cousin
was kind enough to share this on New Year's Day 2012 as we prepared to root the
New York Giants to victory over the Dallas Cowboys and a playoff birth. Okay,
I'll admit I don't remember much about the nuances of this wine but I remember
it was one of the best I've had. Perhaps I can forgive my cousin for polishing
off the magnum of ’97 Sequoia Grove at my rehearsal dinner.
5. 1994 Chateau Pichon Lougueville
Pauillac
I feel bad for the Pichon, it was
enjoyed after a 2010 New Year’s eve experience with the 1990 Latour. Forgive
us, we knew not what we did. It was a memorable bottle nonetheless and
certainly has plenty of room to grow. Displayed dark purple and garnet color.
Deep black fruits, currant, blackberry and baked blueberry with notes of
tobacco leaf and cedar. Weighty and dense on the palate with soft tannins and a
lush finish. Still plenty of time to
mature.
4. 1990 Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon
I've been lucky enough to enjoy this
gorgeous bottle of bubbles on numerous occasions: celebrating my family
business' 20th anniversary at MetLife Stadium in the parking lot with my dad
and brother and in a dusty back room office of the wine store on Christmas Eve
2011 with my staff are the most memorable. The wine is still in its infancy and
holding its sparkle. I just wish more people understood mature Champagne. Many would
think this wine is dead. I'm glad to have one more bottle.
3. 1995 Talbott Sleepy Hollow
Chardonnay
My wife and I married in 2003. The
Talbott Sleepy Hollow was poured from a 5 Liter at our rehearsal dinner. As
many stole the last sips of the '97 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve I
had purchased on a trip to California
in 2000 specifically for the occasion, my dad, brother and I hovered over the
Talbott like thieves guarding their newly stolen treasure. It was glorious. And
we despise California Chardonnay. I'll
never forgive my cousin for polishing off the last of the Sequoia Grove. Opps,
I think I already did.
2. 1982 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot
This is the oldest bottle of Burgundy to hit my
palate. It is singularly responsible for the resurrection of my Burgundy problem. First enjoyed at Thanksgiving 2008, I found
the case tucked in a corner of my family's cellar. My brother gasped
"Where'd that come from?" I answered, "Found it tucked in the
corner". It seems to have subsequently disappeared, reminding me to change
the locks.
1. 1990 Chateau Latour Pauillac
New Year's Eve 2010. It's become
tradition to have two of my best friends (coincidentally one of them is my
knight in shining armor) for dinner. A quiet evening with great friends, good
food, great wine, lots of music and laughter celebrating the end of a long
holiday season. This is clearly the best bottle of wine I have ever enjoyed.
Layered with fruit, spice and earth, its texture is so seamless and finish so
refined, it has no descriptor or comparison. It is so choice, if you have the
means, I highly recommend it.
